January 27, 2023

Tom Ford.

“We’re back! “ Installed on a fluffy sofa in his brand’s Madison Avenue store, Tommy Hilfiger announced the return of New York fashion. “The parade was huge and the people on the street were very enthusiastic. We American designers have tended to show overseas in recent years: it’s time to go home. » In the fashion landscape, New York does lead the way, slowly declining, with its creators preferring Paris, London, and even Los Angeles.

Not to mention the pandemic that petrified everything… Now, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the Federation of New York Fashion Week Organizations, from September 9-14, wants to get the machine working again, inviting journalists and influencers to discover its A designer’s compromise. Business stakes, glittering, provide a clear venue for celebrity cult.

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Tom Ford’s return to New York was expected. The Texas designer’s brand, whose analysts anticipate a possible takeover by cosmetics giant Estee Lauder, has learned of a resurgence in the 2000s. As such, he likes to revive his “erotic fad” vocabulary. His models have all the paraphernalia: smoky eyes, curly hair, slim crystal denim jacket, leather shorts, low-rise slit skirt, animal print (leopard, zebra, crocodile), sequin jacket, 10cm High heels and lace underwear (including men). Both compelling and effective recycling.

Tory Burch.

Tory Burch travels back to the 1990s, when she was installing in New York. A defender of simplicity and sophistication, she paints a portrait of an active woman, somewhere between a vestibule, a Pilates class and a job interview. An almond green jacket is layered over leggings. Then brazenly embellished blouses with ruffles, boho fabrics with mirrors or Indian silks, flowy skirts, accessories from sellers and Calder’s moving jewels. A woman’s wardrobe moves forward.

    Michael Kors.

Finding dynamism: The ambitions of several heavyweights are the same. Michael Kors and Coach, two popular bag brands, need ready-to-wear for elegance and impact. The first tried a parade with Hispanic influences, with fringed outfits submerged in red and sandals mixed with olé olé cutout dresses.A judiciously executed program with the background of Bonita Island on the acoustic guitar. “I’ve been traveling for the past six months: France, Italy, UK, Chicago, South PacificList Kors. Now, as the climate warms, people wear tap shoes in London and dress up in Mallorca or Capri. The city and the beach have never been so integrated. »

Stay “Young and Relevant”

By having all of his models (including rapper Lil Nas X) wear plastic Medusa shoes, Coach’s Stuart Vevers doesn’t seem to be contradicting his boss. But he strives to wow his audience with grunge-influenced wardrobes made from tattered mesh, vintage-looking saddle bags, fisherman sweaters or patchwork coats made from recycled materials.

Carolina Herrera.

“I have to stay young and keep up with the times, and for that I have to surround myself with people like that”, assuming Tommy Hilfiger. The seventy-something-year-old paraded with a group of celebrities (John Legend, Kris Jenner…) in the pouring rain, revisiting his classics, from rugby polo shirts to cardigans. Side note: a collaboration with British designer Richard Quinn, whose world fuses British kitsch with sadomasochistic fun— “Future Alexander McQueen”the ecstatic Hilfiger. “I don’t usually like floral prints, but Richard’s has a pop art element to a down jacket or trousers. »

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At Carolina Herrera, Wes Gordon also explores plants, inspired by “The most elegant flower pot”Rabbit Mellon (1910-2014). “I’ve always been fascinated by the way he combines the practical and the grand in juxtaposing garden furniture with Rothko. In this spirit, I tried to work with cotton, but made it noble with our curtain workshop and rose-shaped patterns », he explained. Held in the Ballroom of the Plaza Hotel, this very Upper East Side escape unfolds to a stainless steel Dolly Parton soundtrack.

“I always paint for an independent New York woman who is looking for herself, but I add a poisonous touch to it”, Kathryn Holstein (Khaite)

Catherine Holstein explores a completely different America in Khaite, “West: Las Vegas, Arizona, New Mexico. I always paint for an independent New York woman who is looking for herself, but this time I added a toxic touch to it”she said, citing the film lost highway Where pulp Fiction for influence.Her impeccable black and white wardrobe is dotted with fringe show girlcrystal, snakeskin print or vinyl bag.

Holstein is one of those American designers of minimalist pedigree who seem to have given themselves a slogan this season: Sexy! Hence the lace robes and bodice crocheted dresses from the duo of Proenza Schouler, or from Gabriela Hearst, who took over the abandoned studio in Brooklyn. Strolling around the Gospel choir, his models wore pretty flared suits and hedonistic knitted dresses, plus some less convincingly surreal bold, stiff bronze corsets or accordion bags.

Also read: Fashion Week: Old World Meets New World

However, in this niche, Peter Do remains the most inspired. From a tower with sweeping views of lower Manhattan, he has evolved a cast — including South Korean stars — with gleaming eyebrows thanks to a partnership with SM Entertainment, a powerful talent agency. Black sultan pants that open up along the legs, backless bodice, translucent white jumpsuit, luminous silk lining that slips out of a midnight blue coat, muslin pleats and melancholy gradients… evoking the death of my father Do, opened the mourning clothes as if to let the light through. “Now I want to learn to enjoy the present more”he said after the performance, fell down, moved, and threw himself into his mother’s arms.

    Peter Do.

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